🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.